![]() Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional.Atmosphere: At superstar chef David Slay’s flagship steak and fish house, enjoy a nightly demonstration of the talents of one of the culinary heroes of SoCal dining, with a menu of classics both old and new, cooked to perfection in a space that’s pleasantly casual for an upscale American with a serious vein of occasions both special and spontaneous.Details: Full bar reservations very essential.When: Dinner only, Tuesday through Sunday.Address: 1141 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach.Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. The pescatarian in me was cared for, and soothed. I wanted fish … I got fish.Īnd when I left, the salty smell of the Pacific was rolling up from the beach. Slay is described as a “Steak & Fish House.” But for my purpose, it was a “Fish House” with a steak subtext. If you want, you can add shrimp or salmon to any of the five salads, creating another realm of seafood dishes. From the pan-seared Cape Cod scallops to the cioppino fish stew. ![]() From the five-spiced baked salmon to the panko-crusted filet of sole. There’s also fried calamari with a lemon aioli charred shrimp with a Calabrian pepper butter steamed Little Neck clams mussels in a garlic and wine broth jumbo lump crab cakes in a fennel remoulade.Īnd though the four seafood entrées are finite, they’re infinitely good. Or, there’s a chilled plate of oysters, shrimp and crudo, for those who want it all. There’s an Aussie rack of lamb and how good does the rosemary-infused farro sound?īut I was there for the seafood, which begins with the raw bar at the top of the menu – ahi tuna crudo in a ginger-lime marinade, the oysters of the day, a chilled wild shrimp cocktail. There’s Mary’s boneless half chicken, and a Granny Smith apple stuffed pork chop. Pastina is a small, star-shaped noodle, a great dish for a sick child who needs to eat, but doesn’t want to eat anything that involves chewing. The one dish I remember, because it’s a food from my childhood reimagined as a grownup dish, is his pastina of the day. His cooking was straightforward, clear, not at all showy – but always so very good. Louis, I did get to know it, and well, when he moved to Los Angeles several decades ago, and opened David Slay’s La Veranda in Beverly Hills. Though I didn’t know his food when Slay was the best chef in St. The cooking of David Slay has been a major part of our culinary lives here in Southern California for a very long time. I had come to eat seafood by the seashore, and I felt like I was in the middle of a childhood rhyme. It seemed more than a little appropriate, since I was just a block above the shore. Since half the name informs us that this is a fish house, it was the fish for which I went. I wasn’t there for the beef, the lamb, the pork chop or the chicken – good as they always are. That’s how I wound up at Slay Steak & Fish House in Manhattan Beach. ![]() And I didn’t fish for sport I fished for food. Some of my happiest childhood memories are fishing in the waters off City Island in northeast Bronx. Somewhere in my papers is a lifetime permit to fish the reservoirs of New York City. I didn’t feel a lack of vegetables, but I felt decidedly in need of seafood. Burgers animal-style at the In-N-Out on the way to LAX. Lunch at a downtown deli famous for its corned beef on rye. It had been a week of too much meat: A birthday party with ribs marching like an army off the grill.
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